When I think of Koreatown in L.A., I am instantly reminded of the sweet, savory, smoky flavors of the all-you-can-eat, grill-it-yourself, belly-busting Korean barbecues. But when our office decided to spice up our weekly meeting with lunch at Roy Choi’s (of Kogi truck fame) Commissary restaurant, we were in for a huge surprise.
Commissary is located at the edgy and unusual The Line Hotel, which from the outside, looks super colorful because of the extra-bright curtains used in each room.
In the lobby – which is meant to mimic a large living room – you’re greeted by a series of round banquettes with a coffee shop at one end and a bar at the other. So you’re covered from morning to night.
But the star of the hotel is located on the second floor, right next to the pool: Commissary, a restaurant designed to look like a greenhouse. Nestled in the crevices of the surrounding skyscrapers, it was breathtaking.
In the bar (which was partitioned using old crates), there was a miniature truck like the one Jon Favreau drove in the movie Chef (whose main character was inspired by Roy Choi). Flooded with sunlight, this magical haven was the opposite of the clamoring, crowded KBBQ hot spots on the street below.
On each table, there was a stack of mismatched napkins and dime-store glasses. We sat down to snoop through some mail, which actually contained our menus …
We ordered a burger, a French dip sandwich, the shrimp po’ boy, fries, roasted carrots, green tea, and root beer for old times’ sake.
Naturally, none of the plates matched. Easier that way, plus it made the table much more fun.
The food was good. Smothered in gooey cheddar cheese (a twist on the classic), and piled high with lean cuts of roast beef, each jus-drenched bite of the French dip oozed with warm, flavorful broth. The po’ boy was everything this southern staple should be: a zingy-spicy delight, a buttery, crispy creation, and a complete mess.
And the burger was excellent. The patty was a juicy mix of 80% beef/20% pork; combined with homemade tomato marmalade and zesty horseradish mustard, this was a home run. We were sorry to leave, but we had to head back downstairs to check out “LA Weekly’s Best Cookie:” the POT cafe’s famous mocha chocolate chip cookies. Filled with chunks of espresso dark chocolate and topped with flecks of sea salt, these cookies were unforgettable.
We highly recommend Commissary next time you’re in Koreatown. And trust us when we tell you: it’s OK to eat with mismatched napkins and plates. It’ll make you feel like a kid all over again.
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